Friday, January 7, 2022

The Florida Keys


The Florida Keys in December...I would have expected more ocean beaches, but there weren't many.


Key West is crowded and overpriced but has its share of curiosities--shuttered old clapboard houses like this one, surrounded by high fences and little patches of jungle.


What few beaches we found had very little in the way of ocean waves, perhaps because mainland Florida and the large island of Cuba block them. 


Ernest Hemingway's house was really the only thing on Key West that interested me. It's overrun with 6-toed cats, which are descended from his own little band of pet cats. 


Some of the tourist literature refers to this place as a mansion, which it is definitely not. I think it's only got three bedrooms--or maybe two bedrooms and a dressing room. But it had a sort of subtropical charm. 


Hemingway's bathroom...


The décor inside the house was surprisingly...feminine--for such a manly man.


Hemingway's kitchen...


His actual bed...


I always forget just how exotic Florida can feel...once you get away from Orlando and a little further south. Great communities of single-wide trailers, hidden behind overgrown banana trees and plumeria trees with all manner of potted palms and faded statuary on their concrete lawns. People of every color and tongue. Palm trees. Coconut trees. Dark places hidden open-air bars on narrow alleys. Rusted antique cars parked along the streets. Exotic birds. Eccentric people of every age and race, people who've fled there from all corners of the nation and of the globe, people who look like they have a story or two to tell.

Sunday, September 19, 2021

Back to West Virginia

The family was supposed to camp at Coopers Rock in West Virginia over Labor Day weekend, but there was rain of tsunami-like proportions.  I ended up staying by myself over Friday and Sunday nights.  My wife stayed by herself on Saturday night.  All our camping gear got saturated.  But it was a good place to be.
I hiked alone down to the bottom of the canyon that you see in the top photo and found the peaceful Cheat Lake.  I camped out on the Shavers Fork of the Cheat River late last fall--way, way up in the mountains and very far from this part of the state.

And then last Sunday I finally took my kids to do the tour of the West Virginia Penitentiary in Moundsville.  It was spectacular!  One of Jimmy Stewart's worst and last movies was filmed in that area of West Virginia--Marshall County--and I watched it in its entirety on YouTube.  There are scenes from the prison.  A very young Kurt Russell is also in the flick.
It's a stately enough place from the outside, but truly hellish within.
This cell is 5 feet x 7 feet, and they used to cram three prisoners into these cells by adding a top bunk and making the weakest or smallest one sleep on the floor with his head under the toilet.  The tour guide said that if they tried to sleep with their heads near the cage doors, someone would cut their throats in the night.  Ghost chasers love this place.  In fact, they love the whole town of Moundsville, which is built on an ancient Indian graveyard--apparently.
We took the historic tour of the prison; they also do a "haunted" tour in which they take you into solitary confinement, the psych ward, and the hospital ward.  

Wednesday, July 28, 2021

New Mexico Trip, Chapter 6: The Long Road Home

 

This little homestead appears on my 2016 New Mexico Gazetteer as the Feliz Ranch.  It sits atop a very broad and treeless plateau just off NM highway 104.  We had reason to approach the place and found it to be a lot less impressive than its name would indicate.

I mean, not many houses get to be named on maps.  And that's pretty much all there is here at Feliz Ranch: a rickety old ranch house, a few outbuildings, and a view that looks more like Kansas than New Mexico.

With natural splendor all around, the Feliz Ranch sits in its own little bowl of ugly.  And yet, even ugly in New Mexico has a kind of beauty to it.

And that's a pretty expensive car sticking its nose out of the garage at Feliz Ranch.


Oh, that it would rain out over this barren land.  And I hope for a good, heavy snowfall in the mountains this winter, so the lakes and reservoirs and water tables can be restored.  


But recent rains did make for a greenish landscape, despite the fact that it was merely a superficial health masking the deep dryness beneath.


Beautiful New Mexico, this place has been haunting me, calling to me for years and years.  I first came here in about 1991.  My friend and I drove here in his jalopy from Oklahoma City because I wanted to get out of a date with a girl I didn't really like.  I left a note on her door saying that I'd have to cancel our date because I was in New Mexico.  She left a poem about disappointment on my door, and the poem was named "New Mexico."  (I've sometimes made the right decision.)


The long, empty roads, the grueling heat, the sweet smell of pinyon and juniper.  I love this place most of all in the winter.


Along highway 104, after passing through the empty husk of Trementina and beginning the long ascent to the nearly empty husk of Trujillo, you'll see a church-like structure on the distant hill.  This is a shrine to Mother Mary--in deference to the Catholicism practiced by most generational New Mexicans of Spanish ancestry.


It's just that, a shrine with statues, and candles, and all kinds of gewgaws and trinkets and kitsch.



In a human-made grotto, there's a place where you can leave prayers to the Mother of God.


Personally, I don't have much use for the statues and fake flowers and beads, but someone finds comfort here.  See the notes, and cards, and rosaries that people have left.


This odd-looking thing is a larger-than-life rosary.


And here's a miniature Calvary.


Ah, but all journeys must come to a close, and time drew me back to Oklahoma City and the flight back East.  Oklahoma City was never a glamorous place.  It always felt to me like a temporary town or an outpost in some desperate hinterland.  Despite improvements, it still kind of has that feel.


There's really not much to photograph in Oklahoma City.  Here's "The Roanoke," on Northwest 12th Street, where I had my first apartment--in the lower righthand corner.  The neighborhood was dicey even back then, in the early 90s.  It's about the same today, though many buildings seem to be the worse for wear.  The once-busy church behind the apartment building is long abandoned.  This was the first place where I lived on my own out in the big world after college.  It was here that I had my first phone number, my first utility bills, my first real home.  I made the place nice--with lots of books, and mood lighting, and artistic prints, and candles, and old furniture, and dark music, and the aroma of coffee, and incense, and clove cigarettes.  Oh the freedom of being young, and gainfully employed, and single in the city, even a dumpy city like that one.  In some ways I miss it.  

New Mexico Trip, Chapter 5: In Search of Sabinoso

Lonely NM Highway 419 winds languidly beneath the baking sun.  Come up a hill and around a bend to find a regular green and white sign that announces the village of Sabinoso, turn left and go five miles.  The sign is as authoritative as any sign pointing the way to Santa Fe or Taos.  But really?  Just try it.  Just turn left and travel the well-maintained gravel road for five miles...and before descending down into the canyon where the village stands, you'll come to this open gate.  "Private property."  No outsiders allowed.  This whole town is mine now!  Scram.  And so we turned around and left without seeing the ghost-town we'd set out to explore.
It's barren countryside and kind of bleak in a lovely, blinding sort of way.  But we drove a pretty "far piece" (as my grandpa used to say) to get to Sabinoso.  It was disappointing to find it posted.
Before reaching the gate, you can peer down from the roadside onto the floor of the canyon far below to see this pleasant ranch.  A broad green valley surrounded by rocky mesas and juniper bushes...so scenic and so very southwestern.
There's a lot of information on the internet about the newly-accessible Sabinoso Wilderness Area, which is nearby and named after the village.  But there's almost nothing about the ghost-town itself.  Here is a photo of my friend taking shelter in the shade of a juniper...like the Buddha beneath the bodhi tree.  I was disappointed to miss out on Sabinoso, whose church at least--Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe--seems to be pretty and worth a visit.  It also has a cemetery.  Does anyone know who owns this place?

New Mexico Trip, Chapter 4: Ghost Towns of San Miguel County

Ah, La Liendre, how you've slipped away in the course of these past 12 years!  La Liendre was open to the public in past years, but it's now posted as private land.  But the kind rancher had given us permission to travel here, and so we went back to see what was left of La Liendre.
The cemetery above La Liendre is spectacular, but we did not have enough time to pay our respects at that sacred spot for a second time.  Besides, my friend shouted and screamed and cursed so fiercely at the horseflies in the cemetery at the last town that I had to shush him and remind him that he was on hallowed ground.  I didn't want to expose yet more sleeping Spaniards to his profanity.
Not exactly Spaniards, but people of Spanish and Indigenous American descent.  The people here are careful to point out the fact that they are not Mexicans.  They never crossed the border; the border crossed them.  They even say that they speak the Spanish of Cervantes, and it's true that when they speak English their accents are charming, distinctly Spanish but not like any other Spanish accents I've heard.
The desert was blossoming in places.
And in other places, too.
Just outside the kitchen of this small house, someone seemed to gather the shards of china in an attempt to put them back together.  Good luck.
"Road" is a relative term out here in the hinterlands of the cattle ranch.
But the main road through the ranch was once maintained by the county, and so it has a few decaying bridges.
Weight limit 4 tons....
Maybe don't try to put 4 tons on that.
The road down into La Liendre can be a bit harrowing...